Could chenin blanc be SA’s G.O.A.T wine grape?
It’s an accolade more usually given to sporting superstars, but the folks at Perdeberg Winery believe chenin blanc is a worthy candidate for Greatest Of All Time status as a superstar of South African wine.
So much so, that they’ve boldly named the newest addition to the Perdeberg line-up G.O.A.T Old Vine Chenin Blanc.
And they do know a thing or two about chenin blanc and the quality offered by ideal terroir of their dryland (unirrigated) old vineyards in Agter Paarl, with the 2023 G.O.A.T becoming the 10th in a portfolio of diverse styles of chenin at every price-point — from easy everyday to the top-end Endura single vineyard, Cap Classique, low-alcohol, organic, natural sweet, fortified and barrel-fermented examples.
This diversity not only backs up Perdeberg’s trademarked claim to being “the home of chenin blanc”, but also reflects the journey of the grape from a workhorse forming the backbone of everything from brandy to blends, to today’s pedigreed stallion seen by some as offering the best potential to be SA’s signature varietal.
Believed to be among the first batch of grapes planted at the Cape by Jan van Riebeeck in 1655 (hence the quirky image of Jan sporting a pair of sunglasses seen through the G.O.AT cut-out on the front label), chenin has evolved into a grape lauded not only for its stylistic versatility but its ability to produce world-class wines of depth and complexity, especially from characterful old vines.
The point about old vineyards, and the tough conditions of dryland farming, is that the vines’ age and their struggle for survival lends character to the resulting wines, particularly as the low yields and smaller berries produce greater flavour concentration and complexity. It also makes for a good back story, and stories sell wine.
Perdeberg are not claiming that this particular chenin is the G.O.A.T of all chenins but this wine, from venerable 35-year-old vineyards, is pretty great nonetheless.
The wine is fragrant with citrus blossom and nuttiness, leading into flavourful layers of crisp apple and ripe pear, ending with a zesty lemony minerality.
There’s a fine balance of richness of flavour, intensity and complexity with zingy freshness, offering delicious enjoyment on its own and working really well with lighter, summery foods like seafood or paella, or a creamy chicken or seafood pasta. (R79.99 at Preston’s, and also available at selected SPAR Tops stores.)
Try it and decide for yourself it it’s the G.O.AT.
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