A brief shift away from the fruits of the vine this week, to the world of premium single malt Scotch whiskies and good news for whisky lovers with the return of a much-loved brand to the local market.
“Icon” is a word thrown rather too easily around, but Bunnahabhain single malt has earned the status over almost 150 years of whisky distilling on the remote Scottish island of Islay and for having a devoted following in South African whisky connoisseurs until taking a leave of absence off local shelves in 2023.
A brief shift away from the fruits of the vine this week to the world of premium single malt Scotch whiskies, and good news for whisky lovers, with the return of a much-loved brand to the local market.
“Icon” is a word thrown rather too easily around, but Bunnahabhain single malt has earned the status over almost 150 years of whisky distilling on the remote Scottish island of Islay and for having a devoted following in South African whisky connoisseurs, until taking a leave of absence off local shelves in 2023.
This followed Heineken’s acquisition of Distell, with Distell International’s Scotch whisky assets not part of the transaction and becoming part of a new, independent company, CVH Spirits, that is now custodian and global distributor of a number of premium Scottish single malt distilleries and brands.
Bunnahabhain 12-Year-Old is the first to return, to be followed by its older siblings and the single malts of Deanston, Tobermory and Ledaig later this year.
Its remote island location and strong maritime character are what give Bunnahabhain (pronounced Boonna-hahvenn) its distinctiveness and appeal.
The distillery’s setting on the rugged north-east coast of Islay, at the mouth of the Margadale River overlooking the Sound of Islay and constantly buffeted by bracing sea winds, sketches a romantic picture — visions of a kilted bagpiper atop a rocky outcrop, the skirl of the pipes carried on the brisk ocean breeze as you sip what medieval Scottish monks called the “water of life”.
The nature of the spirit itself is the key appeal.
Unlike the smoky, peated style of whisky for which Islay is renowned, Bunnahabhain is unpeated, allowing its natural layers of aroma and flavour derived from its location and maturation in sherry and bourbon casks to emerge.
The distillery’s water source, the mineral-rich Margadale Spring, and the bracing sea air around the oak casks contribute to the whisky’s distinctive, slightly-salty maritime character and sense of place.
The spirit is non-chill filtered and bottled with no added colour, allowing the whisky’s natural character to shine through.
The result is “single malts that speak directly to the distillery’s heart”, says Master Blender Julieann Fernandez.
In the glass, the whisky is a rosy-gold colour, a heady, enticing nose of dried fruit, toasted nuts, caramel and florals.
The flavours weave fresh and dried fruit, nuttiness, with creamy vanilla and caramel, a gentle sweetness balanced by subtle sea salt.
Underlying touches of spirit flavour come through from the old sherry and bourbon casks in which it’s matured.
I’ll freely admit to not being much of a whisky lover, but this blew me away and made me an instant convert — utterly beguiling, elegant, characterful, incredible depth of fragrance and flavour, soft and rounded, a long savoury/mineral finish.
Served with a little block of ice and/or just a splash of mineral water (please, no tap water!), it’s made for slow sipping and savouring, contemplation and good conversation.
Welcome back, Bunnahabhain.
Bunnahabhain 12-Year-Old Single Malt is available at leading retailers at a recommended price of R1,200 per 750ml bottle.
Find of the week
A quick swirl through the Western Cape winelands last week turned up several wine gems, and a definite highlight — the newly-released 2022 Cabernet Franc from Stony Brook in Franschhoek.
Cabernet Franc is often the “seasoning” in a red Bordeaux blend, like the salt-‘n-pepper that’s essential to lifting out the flavours in food.
Not as bold and heavy as Cabernet Sauvignon, not as soft as Merlot, Cab Franc is often the “secret sauce” in red wine blends, adding herbal and floral aromas (red or green peppers and tomato-leaf are the signature), freshness in acidity and bright, red fruit, and softer, silkier tannins that temper the bold tannins of Cab Sauv that need more ageing time.
Cab Franc is increasingly stepping out of its role in blends and becoming a grape to be taken seriously on its own.
The Stony Brook 2022 Cabernet Franc is an excellent illustration of why.
Not difficult to understand how it earned a Platter’s 4.5* rating, the wine is easy to enjoy but also showing serious character and ageability for the collector.
Enticing aromas of red berries, fynbos and dark chocolate demand a sip — leading to bright fruitiness balanced with dried herbs and light spiciness; the tannins a polished background presence; with a lingering, flavourful finish that calls for more.
It’s a gorgeous, deeply enjoyable wine that will hopefully break down some misperceptions about Cab Franc as a solo wine.
Order online (R375, and worth it) at https://www.stonybrook.co.za/product/cabernet-franc-2022/